22nd July 2012: Ausangate day 3:

Ausangate day 3:
Felt less cold last night with the extra layers. But the reduced moving space in the sleeping bag also meant that I was less comfortable. 10 hours in a tent in freezing temperatures is just inhumane, and the recurring pattern of semi decent sleep for the first 5 hours or so, followed by just twisting and turning till wake up call resumes.

Tough day today, with 2 high altitude mtn passes (Apacheta pass @ 4,850m followed by the dreaded highest pass of the trek, Palomani pass 5,200m).
First pass should have been a fairly easy affair, if it hadn't been for that nagging flu that impeded the normal function of an already fragile respiratory system operating at reduced oxygen levels. I must have cursed my decision to carry 8 ish kilos of photo gear (day pack total weight more than 13 kgs!!!) a million times during that ascent, which I somehow managed to clear, without lagging behind my fellow trekkers. Trekking poles were definitely my saviour...!!!!

As the temperature warmed up, my breathing became more comfortable, and we swallowed the descent at a brisk pace, down in the valley, to the foot of the second killer mtn pass. 

Jeff announces his intention to climb this bugger non stop, and he sets off on his own. The average climb time for the locals is 30 minutes. Average climb time for sea dwellers, 105 minutes. Climb time for Jeff, 60 minutes.

I settle in a comfortable climbing pace, assisted by my HRM, and stop every now and then to take a few pictures, and catch my breath at the same time. About 70 vertical metres from the summit, I see footsteps in the snow going up, and I foolishly decide to ignore the traced route for that option. It's fun walking on the ice, and I soon clear that section, which lead to a very steep rock face, with very little grip. As I struggle to make any progress, almost slipping and falling a couple of times (would have hurt REAL BAD If I did), I catch a glimpse of a Porter from another group , walking on the normal gravel path, giggling at my pitiful attempt to tackle the treacherous terrain. Little voice of reason tells me to swallow my pride, and backtrack back to the gravel path. As I rejoin the main path, I am caught by Arthuro (and Bertine), who had witnessed the whole 'incident'. He looks at me, shakes his head, and blurts out: 'mad man', before bursting in laughter...!!!:P

Reach the summit a few minutes later, for a climb time of abt 75 minutes. Thor and Kim close in abt 10 mins later.
The view from the summit is...just stunning....On one side, the snow and glacier capped Ausangate. On the opposite side, lies a multicoloured mtn ( not unlike the 7 coloured earth of chamarel)...Looking down in the valley, we can see layers of fading mountains, with some lagunas in the distance. And from the ascent side, the burnt dry winter landscape with colours reminiscent of the mainland African plains. Definitely a worthy reward for our efforts...!!!!
We spend a good 20 minutes at the summit, talking pictures, and having a small snack, and before proceeding with the demanding fairly technical descent.

Lunch at the bottom of the valley, followed by a small 20 mins nap, and here we go again, to the gradual ascent leading to our camp.

On the way, we see a young woman almost midway up a very steep incline (abt 150 metres above us), whistling furiously, trying to retrieve 2 of her stray Alpacas. The ground she's treading on is very loose gravel, and she is carrying a baby on her back...!!!! We met her later at camp, to find out that:

Woman is the spot at the centre of the image...

1. she was successful in getting back the 2 animals

2. only footwear she had were worn out blister inducing (for normal people) sandals..!!!!

3. the baby she was carrying on her back, is her first born, only 6 months old...!!!! CRAZY...!!!

On the Inca trail, we were treated to disgustingly filthy squat down latrines. The rest room we had grown accustomed to on Ausangate, had been a toilet tent with a hole in the ground...!!!! The nice surprise for this camp was proper clean sit down toilets sheltered by brick and mortar windproof enclosure...!!!!! Toilet bliss...!!!!
Day 3 stats: Pukakocha to Jampa @ 4,640m, via Apacheta and Palomani passes culminating at 5,200m, total distance 13 kms.