14th July 2012: Inca Trail Day 1:

Inca Trail Day 1:
After a very hectic dash to pack up the remaining things, we just barely manage to make it to the meeting point in the hotel courtyard in time @ 5.30 a.m. 

We were probably the last ones from our hotel (9 in total, inc us) to arrive. We are informed that the bus would be slightly late, so we make the most of the little extra time we have, to pack in some yummy water melon into those empty stomachs...

Bus pops in, we all get on board, and head back to Ollantaytambo, one of the important and stunning Inca sites we visited on the eve. Drive time, about 2 hours, during which time, almost everyone collapses back to sleep. Tried to lemming it out, but only the eyes would close, and the mind would wander around aimlessly, probably result of a mixture of excitement and the very shaky nature of the ride. As the bus climbs up the mtns of the sacred valley, we are treated to a very unique sight of a thick fog smothering the city just below, in what seemed to be soft cotton fluffs.
Looking at the sky, shock and horror...!!! Overcast, with no blue whatsoever in sight. Luckily, that didn't last long, and as we approach the outskirts of Ollantaytambo, the heavens clear out, leaving us with the beautiful weather we had grown accustomed to in the past few days.
First stop, breakfast organised by the travel agency. We gather around a large table, last supper style in a small shop, and have a quick sandwich, with lots of hot coca tea (meant to aid acclimatisation). We get to meet and chit chat with our fellow group mates. Final shopping: water, rain poncho, cocoa leaves for some, and florida water (some sort of sinus clearing, extremely volatile liquid) for all, and back into the bus we go.
Getting into the bus, I bump my head with the overhead storage, and Bonnie, hands me a green squishy whiny green bird, meant to be bestowed upon thy clumsy of the moment, and proudly carried by the bearer. That really broke the ice and kick started the group dynamics and bonding, since the bird would be passed around countless times during the trek, amidst loud cheers and laughs. 17 head count, excluding the people from the travel agency.

Bus drops us off at the starting point of the classic 4D/3N, at kilometre 82 of the trail. Final prep for all trekkers, and the chaskis (porters) and we march to the control gate, where each registered trekker is checked for all adequate permits.

Final prep for trekkers

 SAS Chaskis

 Squishy whiny green bird on Sarah...!!!

Guide advises me that there was a potential major snag for me. 'Pro' looking cameras allegedly are not allowed on the trek without special permit, because the pictures could be sold at the Inca trail reserve's detriment (or rather without them benefiting)...!!! Now, my gear is not really pro stuff, but for whatever reason, the guys there consider it as such, and the potential for disaster was real at this point. Does pro camera carry any sense these days anymore anyway? any entry level dslr, or even large frame compact can create lust worthy images these days. I won't go into the details, but will only say that I had to resort to 'under the table' transaction to clear my gear through the checkpoint. I pass the control gate without issue, and cross a small bridge just opposite, waiting anxiously for my prized possession to return to its rightful owner, and luckily, it eventually does...!!! So the mad shooting begins...:P Trigger happy me zaps from front to back of the group all day long...

First day trek was an easy affair. About 14 kms to cover with undulating, generally uphill terrain, and lots of small rest breaks, transitioning from the almost arid Andean mtn section, to the tree and streams laden Andean mtn tropical rain forest. Along the way, we bump into lots of Inca ruins, and Fred, our guide goes on to give some explanations at every given site of interest. Most of these Inca ruins were what were considered as point of control for the Inca people, from which the Incas could observe any intruders from a distance. Some of them also doubled up as temples and were literally aligned with the stars.

Very interesting stuff, but almost impossible to register all that info with the very complicated (by my standards) names and references. I'm afraid that those who want to learn more about this part of the vibrant Inca culture, will have to do the Inca trail themselves, or read about it at their own leisure...:P I will merely cover the basic essential stuff... just enough to give you an insight in this adventure...

 Cross Eyed Sarah...!!!

 Macho Man...!!!

Now, a word about Fred. On first approach, he looks like a fairly strict, but fair leader, which given the task at hand, is exactly what's required. He owns a degree in archeology, currently works with the local archeology depts of the local universities, and is literally at the forefront of the Inca archeology, which he says is going to be shone into a whole new light with the recent discoveries made.

Fred

He will, at some point in the near future, go back to academia to complete his PhD...!!! So you can imagine how incredibly detailed and interesting his explanations have been during this whole adventure. (I reckon we must have fallen on the single best guide in the whole of Peru for such a trip!!!) The guy mellowed gradually as the trek progressed, and by the end of the first evening, he had warmed up to us all...During one of our dinners, I had the time to talk to him in more depth. His passion for archeology started at a very tender age when his grandfather would count him numerous stories about the Incas and the Quechua, painting what he described as very vivid picture of the ancient civilisation, and titillating his sense of curiosity towards that field. Initially started his degree in law, before secretly changing his major to archeology. It wasn't until his 3rd year of tertiary ed, that his parents had found out that he had swapped subjects, and apparently, his father called him a mad man, since archeology was a career choice that only the super rich who didn't need have a need for any real income, went for.
He's also in the process of publishing his own book on the Inca civilisation, which is a collaboration with one of the Peruvian foremost archaeologists, Dr. Luis Barreda Murillo, who's sadly passed away from cancer in his seventies. He speaks fondly of Dr. Barreda and describes him as having been this universally acclaimed genius (amongst his peers), who took him under his wing when he was still a budding archaeologist.
Later this year, he's also going on an expedition to an unexplored glacier in Peru, to uncover a new Inca trail.
He's now taken Edwin, the asst guide under his wing. Edwin is also in the process of completing his archeology degree.
We reach first camp site at arnd 5:30, and promptly choose a tent and settle in, whilst the cooks are hard at work preparing our meals. 'Happy hour' time is announced shortly after..!!! Meaning slight pre dinner snack, consisting of tons of popcorn, some surprisingly yummy cookies, with the customary hot beverages. Although we all talk to each other throughout the day, meal time is really when the bunch comes alive and the place and time to learn more about our companions. Meals in general throughout the Inca trail have been nothing short of exceptional, with even fresh trout cevice served on the second day at lunch time.
After dinner, guide briefs us on the next day's trek, and warns us of what's to come. He also checks up on each and every one of us using a small device that measures the pulse and oxygen saturation levels. My stats at the time: about 105 bpm with 91% saturation which sound really bad. Top of the class was Todd aka CIA guy ( by virtue of his build, gadgetry and now exceptional ox sat levels!!!) with something like 77 heart rate and 96% ox sat levels... I am frankly jealous and envious...!!!! :P
Really bad values are pulse of abt 160 whilst doing nothing, and ox sat of 60% or less, which usually indicate that the person is suffering from extreme altitude sickness.
For comparison, a chaski has a standing, (not even sitting!!!!) heart rate of 50 at 3,500 m..!!!! must be in the low 30s at sea level...!!!
Chaskis are thought be to descendants of the Quechua people during the Inca reign, and were considered as high class messengers, who would run across the country to bring news, and sometimes fresh produce to the Royal Inca family. These days, they are just these crazy super fit beings who carry huge loads up and down the mtns. For health and safety reasons, they are not allowed to carry more than 30 kilos (and that's already a lot for this roller coaster terrain!!!! according to our guide, some of them can (and have) actually carry loads in excess of 200 kilos when required .e.g. wounded person on the trail.
They take pride in the Chaski title, and look down when people address them as porters.

Everyone retreats to their respective tents, and I get set up for some night shots. Unfortunately, camp activity is just too high until abt 9.30 p.m., at which time, the real photo shoot starts. I don't last half as long as initially intended, put off by the extreme cold temperatures, and the loud snoring of the chaskis...:P couple of statics, and a 90 minute trail. Finish shooting at arnd 11 p.m., by which time, everyone is fast asleep.

Day Stats:

Maximum Altitude:3,300 m/10,824 ft

Minimum Altitude:2,680 m/8,790 ft

Distance Travelled:12 km approx

Ascent up: 620 m